Engine Tender
Engine Tender
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 1950s AMERICAN FLYER 307 STEAM ENGINE TENDER S 4 4 2  US $70.00
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 A C Gilbert S Scale American Flyer 325AC Engine Tender US $76.50
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 AMERICAN FLYER 314AW ENGINE AND COAL TENDER US $111.23
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 AMERICAN FLYER ENGINE AND TENDER US $24.50
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 American Flyer S Gauge 313 Steam Engine and Tender US $61.00
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 AMERICAN FLYER 21165 ENGINE TENDER FOR PARTS REPAIR US $9.99
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 American Flyer O Gauge Engine Tender US $157.50
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 American Flyer 4 6 2 Pacific Engine Tender 312 SIT US $149.00
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 Vintage Toy Train 2 Steam Engine MARX 1666 Tenders US $.99
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 AMERICAN FLYER 343 NICKEL PLATE TRAIN ENGINE TENDER US $180.25
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 American Flyer Engine Tender 302 AC US $40.00
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 American Flyer 300 Reading Engine Tender US $8.99
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 American Flyer 302 Steam Engine and Tender w Conv Car US $29.99
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 AMERICAN FLYER 4 6 2 ENGINE TENDER RUNS STRONG N R US $20.20
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 American flyer 342 engine and tender has been repainted US $14.50
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 AMERICAN FLYER L2001 STEAM ENGINE AND TENDER SET 4 4 0 US $19.95
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 AMERICAN FLYER 307 STEAM ENGINE AND TENDER SET 4 4 2 US $19.95
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 AF 312 Engine and Tender w SIT US $29.95
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 AF 300 MultiCast Engine w Reading Tender Restored US $29.95
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 AF 302 Engine and Tender US $19.95
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 1961 65 AMERICAN FLYER ENGINE 21165 TENDER SET US $29.99
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 American Flyer 290 Steam 4 6 2 Engine with CNW Tender US $10.45
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 AMERICAN FLYER SFREIGHT SET 315 ENGINE TENDER 4 CARS US $102.50
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 American Flyer 283 Engine w Tender 928 937 977 Cars US $9.99
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 American Flyer S scale Engine coal tender 285 US $6.50
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 American Flyer Casey Jones Model Train Engine Tender US $7.99
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Could someone tell me how to operate a whistle tender on a Lionel train 1955?
The engine light and smoke work fine, but when I hit the whistle button the train only speeds up but does not whistle. This is an "O" scale train. Thanks.
First of all, make sure you do have a whistle. If the tender weighs less than a pound, it doesn't have one. Also, the tender should have a model number stamped on the bottom. The number will end in "W" or "WX" if the tender has a whistle(assuming it hasn't been removed).
Contrary to what the previous response said, it is not and has never been the case that the engine has to be sitting still for the whistle to work.
The whistle works by putting a DC offset onto the AC going to the track. Normally, a postwar whistle isn't polarity sensitive, but sometimes they get that way after years of use. So, the first thing to try would be to switch around the wires going to the track.
If that doesn't work, the problem is probably in the transformer. The rectifiers sometimes go bad. If you have a multimeter, you can test this really easily. Take your multimeter, set it to read DC volts, and hook it across the transformer outputs. Then, move the whistle control. At some point, you should get a reading of a couple of volts(3-5) either positive or negative. When you get to the end of the travel of the control, you should have a reading of .75V or so.
If the transformer fails this test, you need to take it to an authorized service center or independent repairman to have it fixed. If you're not familiar with working on transformers, I'd suggest not attempting a DIY repair.
If the transformer passes the test, you need to focus your attention on the whistle itself. First, remove the tender shell. Depending on the design, it may have a screw at each of the four corners from the bottom, a screw through each end going through the plastic shell, or a single screw at the rear end and a tab at the other end.
With the shell off, you need to locate the relay. Put the tender on the track, and crank the power up. Then, take a screwdriver, and manually close the relay contacts. The whistle should blow. If it doesn't, you have a loose or broken wire somewhere in the tender. If you're reasonably handy with a soldering iron or gun, this will be easy to locate and repair yourself. Otherwise, you need to visit a service center.
If the whistle does work, you have a damaged relay.
Good luck!