All Kinds of Model Trains Equipment

Starting a Coffee Shop: Equipment Needs

So you have decided on starting a coffee shop! Congratulations! In my coffee shop business plan package, I go into more detail regarding equipment but due to space here, I am only going to give you some basic ideas of what to consider when looking at your equipment needs.

First of all, do yourself a favor and DO NOT buy any used equipment unless you know the exact age, where it came from, who used it, and that maintenance records are verifiable. I am only referring to anything with a motor or compressor. Used sinks, tables, counters, etc are fine as long as they are in decent shape. All other equipment, be VERY careful!

Even if you get it from a friend, you might be assured by them that the equipment was maintained properly and often, however did they get it used and can they get that guarantee from whom they bought it from? And how old really is it?

As you may have guessed, I fell into this trap and had things breaking down when I did not expect it shortly after I opened my coffee shop. Yes even my espresso machine. I was in a bad spot then! Luckily I had access to a one group machine for backup and a local guy was able to fix the other fast but you may not be as lucky.

I eventually upgraded to mostly new equipment when, but this can be avoided by getting new equipment at the start. You will be glad you did it, trust me!

Equipment Needs

Cash register or POS computer? – A computer POS (point of sale) system is good there is no doubt about it. These are the ones that have the touch screen monitors and such. However, they are probably (and arguably) best for analyzing your sales and inventory only, and not much more. They do not speed up your customer line.

If you want one of these guys, be prepared to pay about $5000 for a base system. The price goes up for multiple terminals and printers, monitors, a kitchen printer, etc.

In my opinion though, a POS fast food register that has price look ups (PLU) and department categories is sufficient for most coffee shops. Try to get one that allows you to download the information to your computer. Most have this feature today. It may, however increase your manual inventory and sales tracking if you have to put this info into your accounting software and spreadsheets manually but it can be a big money saver. If you get in the habit of entering the figures daily, you will not have a huge amount of data entry to do at month’s end. You can usually get these types of registers for about $800 or so.

If you end up opening other stores, I think the touch screen computer POS may be the way to go then because it will make your management and inventory control much easier, and you can link all of your stores together and control them from one place.

Espresso Machine

This is the Mack daddy of the whole business, your life blood. DO NOT SKIMP ON IT! However, having said that there is the line of overkill you do not need to cross either. I say, two group maximum, if you need more power or want a backup, get a one group as well.

The feasibility of a three or four group is great but it’s difficult to get more than one person working on them due to spacing of the group heads, etc. Ordinarily, you do not need more than one person pulling shots and making the espresso beverages anyway. It is almost impossible for one barista to use all four groups at one time so you be the judge! However that may be up to debate if you get REALLY busy. However, a two group is always my choice.

There are three basic types of espresso machines: Semi-Automatic, Automatic or Super Automatic. Well My choice is always the automatic because you can program them to cut off a shot at 23 seconds, or whatever you choose but still do it manually. The semi-automatic requires manual shut off by the operator.

The super automatic machine will grind the beans, tamp, pull the shot, shut it off and even discard the used grounds. Yes, I am serious. I believe you lose a lot of ‘art’ when you use one of these. You’d be surprised at the amount of people that love to see a barista set up and then pull a great shot. These super autos are also big bucks. But if all you want to do is move your cattle call through the line, this is the machine for you!

The boiler capacity should be large enough for a big rush, 9-14 liters should be sufficient. You do not want to run out of steam or hot water in a rush and with a smaller boiler that will happen! Trust me on this from experience!

Buy a machine based on the availability to get parts and service locally. Do not buy based on price alone, or ‘coolness’ or ‘features’ of a machine. They are all good these days. Features will not mean anything if you cannot get local service on your machine.

As far as water softeners, the choice to get a whole water system softener is going to depend on where you are located. In central Texas, the water is VERY hard but I chose to not soften my whole water system, just for the espresso machine. If you are not familiar with hard water, this is what causes lime build-up. It’s a white, crusty looking build up that will kill your $5000 or 10,000 espresso machine. It clogs up the piping that in time, builds up to the point of the water not being able to get through. Then your machine needs to be completely taken apart and de-limed. Not pretty and not cheap!

You will most likely have to have a complete de-liming performed several times over the life of your machine, however if your water is very hard and you do not soften it for your espresso machine, you will most likely have to have it de-limed at a minimum of once per year. This will get time-consuming and expensive, even if you learn to do it yourself. I had my one group de-limed for about $900 so do the math. Avoid lime scale build-up by getting a water softener.

Espresso Grinders

You will need one for decaf and one for regular espresso. There are several manufacturers and models. I will tell you though to be sure it’s automatic and has a doser/coffee hopper. They make a doserless model that grinds right into the portafilter and though this is freshly ground espresso, it does not work well in a rush! The units with a hopper allow the hopper to fill with ground espresso and have a lid to keep out the air. The bigger units have a bigger hopper and vice versa. Also, these have a bean hopper that you can get about 2 lbs of espresso beans in.

Bulk Coffee Grinder

These are the types you see in the food store bulk coffee aisle. Be sure to get the full scale version, not the shorter one. The only difference I can see is the taller one is easier to get a bag under to grind beans for customers. The shorter one is not! Try to have one grinder for regular and decaf, and another for flavored coffee if you will serve it. Using the same for all three will make the regular and decaf coffee taste like the flavored coffee. This grinder will need proper maintenance and burr replacement after so many hours as well. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on this.

Coffee Maker (drip)

Be sure to buy for your volume. Automatics are best as they are plumbed to a water line. Pour over units will you need to fill manually! The air pot brewers are the better fits because they brew the coffee directly into the air pots. There are single unit models and double unit models. You will save a lot of time especially in a rush, with a double brew unit.

Pastry Case (refrigerated and non)

There are several different sizes. Take your floor space into consideration but also buy for capacity and visual display. A nice, attractive unit that holds and displays a nice array of pastries is key for merchandising. Dual zone cases are a good idea because they let you have part cold, and part room temperature (dry case) pastries that do not need to be refrigerated.

Blender

There are several models to choose from but some have features you just won’t need. Be sure to get a commercial blender. Consumer units do not have the heavy duty types of motors that commercial units have. That means they will break down a lot faster than a commercial one! I would suggest you give Vitamix a look here.

Sandwich Prep Unit

These come in single, double and triple door units. Of course, plan for your overall room but your needs as well. The larger units have more capacity inside the unit, but the bigger plus is the prep top area that has more compartments to put meats, vegetables, etc in. If you are planning on a regular deli and Panini service, I would say the double door unit would be good. You may even get away with the smaller one!

Under Counter Refrigerator

Do yourself a favor and get a double door unit. These are basically like the sandwich prep units but without the top compartments. The inside capacity should be big enough to hold a good portion of your dairy, as well as opened soy cartons, smoothie mix, bottled water and soda (if you do not have a larger unit or merchandiser for water and soda. Plan accordingly.

Storage Refrigerator

This is for the back of your shop. This will be your commercial refrigerator in the back area to house your back stock of refrigerated items such as milk, as well as your baking ingredients, food items, etc. There are double and single door units.

Ice Maker

Getting an ice maker that can make an average of 600-1000 lbs per day is good. It will give you enough and still be able to make more within 24 hours. In a busy shop, you’d be surprised how much ice you can go through: sodas, fruit smoothies, frappes, frozen chai.

Freezer

You will need one of these to keep your ice cream, and other food ingredients that can and need to be frozen.

Oven

Get this based on your baking level. A ¼ size may be too small and a full size may be too big. The median unit is a ½ size and has 3 racks.

Convection oven? Most pastries, pies and other baking can be done well in a convection oven. That is an oven that has a blower wheel that disperses the heat evenly and faster throughout the oven. Therefore your baking time is usually cut in half.

Panini Grill

Cast iron (non-ceramic) with ribbed plates are the better units. With the ribbed, rather than flat plates you will get the ‘grill marks’ on the bread and that always looks impressive. I recommend a double plate unit so you can effectively grill up to four Panini at once if you have a large order

Three Compartment Sink

This will be essential per most health departments for wash, rinse and sanitize. If you have a commercial dishwasher, it usually overrides the 3 bay sink. However, most restaurants have both. You don’t need a big one, just one big enough to get your biggest ‘washable’ piece of baking or cooking hardware into.

Hand Sink(s)

Check your health department requirements because you may need a hand sink every so many feet or based on how many employees you have, or based on your floor plan. These are sinks only big enough to wash your hands in and that is it. That is why they are so small.

Furniture

Pick and choose what is in between comfortable and not. This will help you avoid squatters that love to stay all day. Ordinarily, people in your store is a good thing but not if they are taking up space and just being comfy! This will include your tables and chairs, as well as couch, wing hairs, etc. If you are an eclectic coffee house, good finds can be had at Goodwill and other resale shops.

Phone

Just get one that you can hear when it rings! A cordless phone is a great idea.

Radio System

If u can, get extra speakers and have one in at least all four corners for best sound quality.

Credit Card Machine

This is the swiper w/pin pad – If you accept credit and debit cards, this is essential. Usually they are purchased from your credit card processor. Leasing one of these is usually a rip-off. Try to buy it outright.

Prep Tables

These are stainless steel or aluminum and great to make a kitchen prep area. They clean easily too. They come in various heights and widths, with or without a backsplash and usually have a shelf underneath.

So there you have some information to get you started on planning your equipment needs for staring a coffee shop. Be sure you take your floor space into account when figuring the sizes of your equipment. Also be sure you account for your anticipated customer volume. Early planning is key to having the right equipment to begin with.

Tony DiCorpo is a coffee shop owner, operator, barista and entrepreneur. He is also a coffee shop business consultant. He has authored many articles on the specialty coffee business and a business plan package that can be found http://www.tonys-coffee-shop-business-plan.com

About the Author

Tony DiCorpo is a coffee shop owner, operator, barista and entrepreneur. He is also a coffee shop business consultant. Tony has extensive experience in business and more than 20 years experience in sales, customer service and business management with special focus on start-up and entrepreneurship, marketing and public relations.

He is experienced in real estate acquisitions, leases and lease negotiations, business acquisitions and fixing distressed coffee shops. He has authored many articles on the specialty coffee business. His complete coffee shop business plan package can be found at tonys-coffee-shop-business-plan.com

Bay Open Hopper

Window Terminology (a-j)

Window Terminology

Aluminum-clad windows and doors:

Windows or doors of wood construction covered on the exterior with extruded (EAGLE windows) or roll-formed aluminum. Has a factory-applied finish to deter the elements. The extruded aluminum adds structural capabilities to the product and helps eliminate warping and damage through handling.
Anchor strip:

Board around a window frame nailed to house framing. It also serves as windbreak. In newer windows, anchor strip may be plastic or metal.
Angle brace:

Wood member nailed across window frame at upper corners while frame is in a squared position in order to maintain squareness before installation.
Argon:

An odorless, colorless, tasteless, nontoxic gas that is six times denser than air. Replacing the air between two panes of glass with argon gas reduces temperature transfer, making the surface of the glass inside the house closer to the inside temperature.
Astragal:

The center member of a double door, which is attached to the fixed or inactive door panel.
Apron:

Inside horizontal trim located under the window stool at the bottom of a unit.
Auxiliary frame window:

EAGLE’s version of a fixed, direct set window frame where glass is set directly into a frame without a sash. Is used in the creation of geometric and radius windows.
Awning window:

Hinged at the top, this window has a single sash that swings outward from the bottom.
Backband (also Backbend):

Millwork around outside edge of the window casing, usually installed when the casing consists of flat boards.
Balance:

Device for counterbalancing a sliding sash, usually associated with a double-hung window, so sash may be held open at any given position. Usually a system of cords, weights, springs, spiral devices or block and tackle hardware.
Barn sash:

Plain sash for farm or cottage, used as a fixed, sliding, or casement window; generally installed in a rough frame for utility or temporary structures.
Basement window (also sash, cellar sash):

Wood or metal in-swinging sash that is hinged at either the top or bottom.
Bay window:

A composite of 3 or more windows that project out from the wall. Usually consists of one large center window with two flanking fixed or operating windows at 30, 45, or 90 degree angles to the wall.
Bead (also bead stop; stop):

Wood strip against which a swinging sash closes, as in a casement window. Also, a finishing trim at the sides and top of the frame to hold the sash, e.g., a fixed sash or a double-hung window sash.
Bedding:

Method of glazing in which a thin layer of putty or glazing compound is placed in the glass rabbet, the glass pressed into the bed, the glazier’s points (metal tabs) driven, and the sash is face-puttied over the points.
Bottom rail:

Bottom horizontal member of a window sash.
Bow window:

A composite of 3 or more windows in a radial or bow formation. Typically consists of casement win¬dows both fixed and operating assembled at 10 degree angles from the wall.
Boxed mullion:

Hollow mullion between two double-hung windows to hold sash weights.
Box-head window:

Window made so the sash can slide vertically into the wall space above the header.
Brickmold:

Standard outside casing around the window to cover the gap between the window frame and the opening. Nails are driven through the molding to install the window to the framed opening.
Cabinet window:

Projecting window for the display of goods, as in a retail store.
Cameo window:

Fixed oval window, generally with surrounding moldings and ornaments, often found on Colonial Revival Houses.
Caming (Cames):

Lead strips which bond small pieces of decorative glass in windows.
Cap:

Decorative molded projection, or cornice, covering the lintel of a window.
Casement:

A window with side hinges that cranks outward from either the right or left.
Casement operator:

A hardware device used to operate a casement window to any open position.
Casing:

Molding or trim available in many widths, thicknesses and profiles applied to the frame around a window or door to cover the space between the window frame and wall.
Center-hung sash:

A sash that pivots on pins in the middle of the sash stiles and sides of the window frame to allow access for cleaning from the inside.
Check rail:

On a double-hung window, the bottom rail of the upper sash and the upper rail of the lower sash, where the lock is mounted.
Chicago window:

A large fixed sash flanked by a narrow, often mov¬able, sash on either side. First used by Chicago School architects in the late l9th and early 20th Century.
Circle top:

A generic term referring to a variety of window units with one or more curved frame members, often used over another window or door.
Cladding:

Usually an aluminum or vinyl material fixed to the outside faces of wood windows and doors to provide a durable, low-maintenance surface.
Clerestory window:

A venting or fixed window in the upper part of a lofty room that admits light to the center of a room.
Colonial windows:

Windows with small rectangular panes, or divided lites, designated as l2-lite, 16-lite and so on.
Combination window unit (also combination storm sash and screen:

Window assembly containing a half screen and two glass storm panels; in summer the bottom storm panel is stored in the top frame, exposing the screen panels.
Condensation:

The deposit of water vapor from the air on any cold surface whose temperature is below the dew point, such as a window glass or frame that is exposed to cold outdoor air. Is controlled by limiting the amount of humidity inside of a room relative to the outdoor temperature.
Corner window:

Two windows meeting at a corner of a structure.
Coupled window:

Two separate windows separated by a mullion. Also called a double window.
Cottage double-hung window:

A double-hung window in which the upper sash is shorter than the lower sash.
Crank handle:

A handle that attaches to an awning or casement operator, used to open the venting window.
Diffusing glass:

Glass with an irregular surface for scattering light; used for privacy or to reduce glare.
Diocletian window:

Semi-circular window divided by wide mullions into three lights (lites). This ancient Roman style was later used by Palladio in the 16th century. Also called a Therm. Used in Classical Revival buildings of the early 1900s.
Dormer window:

A space which projects from the roof of a house, usually including one or more windows.
Double-hung window:

A window with two vertically moving sashes, each closing a different part of the window.
Double windows (also double glazing):

Two windows, such as a regular window plus a storm sash; also an insulating window with air space between glass panes.
Drip cap:

Horizontal exterior molding to divert water from the top casing so water drips beyond the outside of the frame.
Drop window:

Vertical window in which the sash can descend into a cavity in the wall below the sill.
Extension blind stop:

Molded window frame member, usually the same thickness as the blind stop and united with it, thus increasing the width of the blind stop, in order to close the gap between the window frame and the rough opening in the house frame. Used to attach the window frame to the wood framing. Also known as blind stop extender or blind casing.
Extension casement hinge:

Hinge for a casement window which provides clearance for cleaning the two sides of the sash from the inside.
Extension jamb:

A board used to increase the depth of the jambs of a window frame to fit a wall of any given thickness.
Extrusion:

A form produced by forcing metal or vinyl through a die. Window and door frames are often clad with extrusions.
Eyebrow windows:

Low, inward-opening windows with a bottom-hinged sash. Usually attic windows built into the top molding of the house, the units sometimes are called “lie-on-your-stomach” windows or slave windows. Often found in Greek Revival and Italianate houses.
Face glazing:

Common glazing set with putty in a rabbetted frame.
Fanlight (also sunburst light; fan window; circle-top transom):

A half-circle window over a door or window, with radiating bars.
Fenestration:

The arrangement, proportioning and design of windows and doors in a building.
Finger-jointing:

A wood end-joint formed by a set of interlocking fingers, coated with adhesive and meshed together under pressure.
Fire window:

Window with fire-endurance rating specified for the location.
Fixed light (also fixed sash):

Window or sash which is non-operative or non-venting.
Foil:

Lobe on a leaf-shaped curve formed by the cusping

of a circle or arch. The number of foils involved is indicated by a prefix, e.g., tre-foil (3); quatre-foil (4), etc. Foils are found in windows of Gothic Revival churches and houses.
Folding casement:

Casement windows hinged together so they may fold into a confined space.
Frame:

An enclosure or combination of parts which surround a window sash or door panel.
French sliding doors:

A sliding door which has wider panel members around the glass, thus giving it the appearance of a hinged French door.
French window:

Two casement sash hinged on the sides to open in the middle; sash extends to the floor and serves as a door to a porch or terrace.
Geometric window:

A fixed framed window made up of 2 or more angles (i.e., pentagon or trapezoid).
Georgian window:

A double-hung window.
Glazing:

The glass panes or lights in the sash of a window. Also the installation of glass in a window.
Glazing bead (also glass stop):

Removable trim that holds glass in place.
Glazing clip:

Metal clip for holding glass in a metal frame while putty is applied.
Glazing channel:

Groove cut into sash for acceptance of glass.
Glazing gasket:

Special extruded plastic shape for attaching window glass to metal or masonry wall openings. It also serves as a cushion and insulator.
Gothic-head window:

Window topped with a pointed arch.
Grille (or muntin bar):

Usually removable for easy cleaning, grilles give the appearance of a divided window pane.
Guillotine window:

The first double-sash window, with only one movable sash and no counterweights or balancing system. A peg was inserted through a hole in the movable sash and into a corresponding hole in the frame. Its tendency to come slamming down led to the colorful name.
Hanging sash (also hung sash):

Sash hung on a cord connected to a counterweight.
Head casing:

Top or upper member of any element or structure. In windows, it refers to the top of the frame.
Head flashing:

Flashing installed in a wall over a window.
Header:

Supporting member or beam above window opening which transfers building weight above to the supporting wall structure on each side of the window.
Head jamb (also head):

All of the horizontal members that make up the top of the window or door frame.
Hinged French doors:

Hinged door(s) which have wider panel members around the glass.
Hit-and-miss window:

Two-part window with the lower sash containing movable ventilation panels.
Hopper light (also hopper vent and hopper ventilator):

Inward-opening ash hinged at the bottom.
Impact resistant glazing:

Glass specifically manufactured to withstand impacts from airborne objects or forced entry. Usually a type of laminated glass often used in coastal areas impacted by hurricanes.
Insulating glass:

A combination of 2 or more panes of glass with a hermetically sealed air space between the panes. The space may be filled with an inert glass such as argon.
Interior glazes:

Glazing installed from inside of the building structure.
Jal-awning window (also awning window):

Windows with several out-swinging, awning type units that pivot near the top of the glass and operate in unison.
Jalousie:

A shutter-type window with slats, which are either fixed or adjustable.
Jalousie windows (also louvered windows):

A window composed of overlapping narrow glass, metal, or wooden louvers, operated with a crank handle for adjusting the louver angles.
Jamb:

The vertical members at the side of the window or door frame.
Jamb depth:

Width of the window frame from inside to outside.
Jamb liner:

The plastic or metal track installed in the jambs of the window in which the window sash slide.

About the Author

S&K Roofing, Siding and Windows is Maryland's leading company in roofing and maintenance-free home exteriors. Family-owned and operated since 1980, S&K Roofing, Siding and Windows provides high-quality exterior home workmanship and customer service that is among the best in the industry. We offer maintenance-free home exteriors including roofing, siding, windows, doors, gutters and downspouts, custom trim/wrap, and decks.

To learn more visit SKRoofing.com.